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To convert or not to convert, that is the question...

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I will make one calibration change for an additional $100 per change. For example, changing a shift point for a given gear is $100 vs changing a shift point and a pressure setting would be $200. That value can be used towards the full custom tuning price.

 

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Red Baron
To convert or not to convert, that is the question...

OK, so Circle D doesn't really recommend using my stock converter due to the fact that there could be clutch material in it. Knowing my luck there will be, haven't dropped the pan yet considering it's not worth wasting $150 in AMSOIL trans fluid to confirm something we already suspect. So that being said, I needed a new one. The guy I'm getting my trans from has the converter that goes with it for $350 and it was restalled 4-500RPMs higher to 22-2300RPMs or he has a new stock converter for $200. He says you can barely tell. Will this be a good move for my car? I'm pushing close to 700rwhp on a stingy dyno. I have a 17" Weld drag wheels and 295/45/17 MT drag radials, so I'm assuming that will get the power to the ground. I want to keep it as close to the stock feel as possible but neither he nor Chris at CD Specialties thought I'd be able to tell much of a different feel.

thoughts?

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